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Author Archives: freelander
Gorzów Wielkopolski: Heart of darkness
It is said that, when the Polish came to Landsberg for repopulating the town, they found the empty dwellings as had been left by the germans when hastily evacuated them: furniture, belongings, pantries and even –in some homes– the meal … Continue reading
Szeroka droga
Farewell, Torun, my old friend; good bye to you. I carry on riding miles on Rosaura’s wheels, heading for Germany. Today, September 21st, autumn arrives punctual with a first shower — rather a deluge, that forces me to seek shelter … Continue reading
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Hotel Przystanek
I leave Piecki behind on a fine motorcycle morning, cool and sunny, riding along a road with curves and hills (much to be desired in this rather flat country) and one of the worse pavements ever: so wrinkled and pot-holed … Continue reading
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Kapliczki and the Tannemberg memorial
Middle of September 2014. It’s about time to pay a little homage to the kapliczki, humble crosses or chapels scattered all over Poland and whose origin no one knows for certain: some say they were shrines dedicated to Dionisos; others, … Continue reading
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A meeting with magic
Three days in Bialystok bring me new acquaintances (like Maka, the young Georgian volunteer, or Grzegorz, the bat researcher) and an unexpected meeting with homeopathy. It’s a farm in the countryside, ten minutes by motorbike from Tykocin, where Beata, a … Continue reading
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Upon the trodden track
Here and there, through the layer of clouds, a few sun beams shine on the land, cheering up the countryside. Behind me, noise of passing cars and lorries. I’ve pulled to the shoulder for a moment, right after leaving behind … Continue reading
Vilnius, Jerusalem of the North
I wake up with the optimistic idea that today must be better than yesterday, simply because it can’t get any worse: my adventure with the Devil on wheels has meant a minimum below which I don’t think I’ll fall, at … Continue reading
Nightmare in Lithuania
(Second part of The Devil on wheels) Fear hinders our ability for thinking, analyzing, and acting cunningly. When I realize the lorry driver wants to chase me to death, my only reaction is to speed up and escape; run away … Continue reading